Ever wonder where all the western Europeans go, when they leave on extended holiday? For years, many have swarmed to Croatia's sun-drenched Adriatic coast. Outside of Europe, few people know about the charms and treasures that flourish behind grim images of the nation's recent past. The Balkan War, which ended in 1995, barely touched most of Croatia's southern islands. Now the nation is dedicating millions of dollars to rebuild its traditional tourist base, and to entice new international visitors. (CNN)

Island clings to Venetian roots - by Neil MacDonald, Financial Times, Published: 12th Nov 2007

Marco Polo, the 13th century merchant-explorer, has gone down in history as a Venetian. The Italian maritime city-state was at the height of its commercial influence when he claimed to have made his colourful trip to Kublai Khan's China, as later recounted in a Genoese prison cell. But national designations can be warped over time. Korcula, a historically rich island on the Croatian side of the Adriatic, also claims a share of Mr Polo's legacy.

"This was Venice," explains Michael Unsworth, a British real estate developer, as the ferry approaches Korcula town. The mainland 2km behind was ruled by Dubrovnik, then a separate maritime republic and today Croatia's main mass tourism destination, 110km to the south-east. Along with local tourism officials, Mr Unsworth hopes to capitalise on Korcula's heritage carefully, bringing in high-spending guests without spoiling the setting. But his company, Adria-Azija, also intends to invigorate the local economy. The enterprise recently started constructing a boutique hotel in the town, using the stone shell of a decayed medieval palace. Wealthy Asian tourists are always excited by the Marco Polo connection, says Mr Unsworth.

Historians say the veteran traveller was among the prisoners taken by the rival Genoese at the Battle of Korcula (or Curzola), a naval clash off the island in 1298. Local lore also makes the town his birthplace, though the evidence is circumstantial at best. "Marco Polo's tower" belonged to a trading family called Polo. "People believe he was born here in 1254 and moved at the age of 12 to Venice," says Zivan Filippi, a local historian and former travel agent. The living quarters in the tower are soon to be converted into a museum illustrating life at that time, Mr Filippi says.

The surname, meanwhile, survived as "de Polo" and the Slavicised "Pavelic". Sanja de Polo, a hotel manager, says her ancestors have lived on Korcula since the 13th century and were renowned as builders of wooden ships. The island economy used to revolve around shipbuilding and commercial sailing, both now moribund. Tourism, which arose after the second world war, is the only source of jobs besides government administration. Young people usually leave to work elsewhere.

The town's five existing hotels all belong to the same company, which is 79 per cent state-owned. After the tough 1990s, the company raised limited financing, and the first hotel to be upgraded, the 1,420-bed Marco Polo, reopened in July. The second, Hotel Korcula, began its refurbishment a few weeks ago. Korcula town and the surrounding villages receive nearly 400,000 tourist overnights per year, a significant pressure for a municipality of only 6,500.

Annual revenues come to roughly EUR20m between the hotels and private accommodation, tourism officials say. Better tourism management could generate far higher earnings, in Mr Unsworth's view. "The key is to get the hotel company privatised, and then, eventually, create alternatives to tourism" for a more well-rounded economy, he says. "Island life is sustainable, especially with electronic communications," he adds. "I can do my work here."

Adria-Azija has commissioned a Thai interior designer to add touches of the Silk Road - the Middle East, India and China - to its Venetian-Korculan palace, which will open as a luxury hotel containing six apartments in 2009. "We wanted the 'wow" factor, but it won't be so 'India' that the building won't come through." As more attractive accommodation becomes available, the summer tourism season could be extended year-round. "Asian tour groups are happy to come at this time of year, since they don't like the sun," Mr Unsworth says. "But you've got to think about keeping the hotels and restaurants open."

The Venetian-controlled trading port never recovered from the 1348 Black Death, prior to which the population was higher than today. In a break from the past, however, Korcula now falls under the jurisdiction of Dubrovnik - an arrangement the locals find vexing.  Stanka Kraljevic, director of the Korcula town tourist board, says: "Dubrovnik always puts Dubrovnik first." Still, local promoters are glad to avoid the overcrowding in the larger walled city. "I don't want us to profit in a cheap way from Marco Polo," Ms Kraljevic says. She was annoyed by national tourism brochures proclaiming Croatia the "Homeland of Marco Polo", since the explorer "has to do with the whole of Europe and the Far East".

The 276 sq km island is internally fragmented too. The other municipalities bemoan the lack of a coordinated tourism strategy. The vineyards produce Grk, an indigenous white wine, yet cannot hope to draw visitors the way Mr Polo does. Little about Marco Polo's life is undisputed. Yet spinning stories and making money are Venetian traditions. The world famous merchant-explorer lives on as Korcula's "biggest brand", Mr Unsworth says. (www.ft.com)

The new Riviera - Those in the know are forsaking the crowded Cote d'Azur and heading for the Istrian Riviera, Dubrovnik and the necklace of sun-drenched islands off the coast of Croatia. Steven Spielberg, Sharon Stone and Clint Eastwood are admirers of the sparkling Adriatic with its pine forests, olive groves, vineyards and fishing villages, and Princess Caroline of Monaco has bought her own place off the Istrian peninsula. There are still 1,185 uninhabited islands if you want to buy your own, though it'll cost you up to £1 million. But there are plenty of treats for the rest of us here in one of the most affordable dream destinations. Regular ferries hop between islands such as Hvar, famous for its lavender, rosemary and honey, and gutsy Korcula, birthplace (they claim) of Marco Polo. Look out for the spirited Moreska dance performed every week in summer. Star turn on the mainland, Dubrovnik, is nearly back to its best after a civil-war battering and ranks among the Med's most stunning medieval walled cities. (The Observer - link to article)

Croatia - Beyond the postcard, a traveller's tale - " ... Having soaked up some more of the glorious rays we arrived in picture perfect Korcula. There can be nowhere more beautiful to have breakfast than beneath the walls of this medieval town, with the sea sparkling at your elbow. The irksome three paces from our front door to the crystal sea did not prove insurmountable and it was only our appreciation of the first Ferry that made us board another after a few days ... " (The Observer - link to article)

Explorer Marco Polo was from Korcula - or so they insist - and his house is open to the public. Twentieth-century adventurer and war hero, the late Sir Fitzroy McLean, bought a house there after the war and was the only foreigner allowed to own property in what was then Yugoslavia, a tribute paid to him in gratitude for the battles he fought alongside Tito's partisans against the Nazis.

Ideal then for those who want more than just beaches on their Mediterranean island, although there is a rare sandy one at Lumbarda. The local wine, GRK, is one of the best in the land, with restaurant food better than in the package hotels which are up and running again after the recent conflict. Korcula, in any case, was not attacked. (The Observer - link to article)

" ... Korcula is said to be one of Croatia's most beautiful and also one of its biggest islands, with 112 miles of jagged coastline. Stepping off the ferry, I am overwhelmed by the perfumes of rosemary, sage and lavender. The old Greek name for the island, Korkyra Melaina, reflected its dense covering of pine trees, though these have been whittled away over the years for boat-building.

The underwater world of Korcula is, however, only now being revealed to diving tourists. My base in the north-west of the island is Vela Luka, a small town where ancient Romans used to relax between wars. From Vela Luka, which means "big bay", we can head north or south to dive ... " (Diver Magazine Online - link to article)

Korcula contains many monuments dating from its days under Venetian rule. It was the home of famed traveler Marco Polo, the first European to visit China. His house may be visited - though little remains but his garden and a staircase to the tower from which he is presumed to have gazed out on the world and deemed it a place to explore. An interesting feature in Korcula is the manner in which its streets were re-built in the thirteenth century. Most of the lanes run west to east in order to block out the northeastern Bora, a cold and powerful wind that at times stirs up the Adriatic while allowing the gentle Mistral breezes from another direction to air-condition the town. (Elegant Cruises - specializes in high-end cruising. They are based on New York's Long Island.)

Photo courtesy of Korcula.Net

"... on the island of Korcula (pronounced "kor-chew-la"), exploration is more than a pastime -- it's heritage. Marco Polo was born here in 1254. In his late teens, he joined his father and uncle on a journey from the Middle East to China, and eventually across the Gobi Desert in Mongolia.

For tourists wanting to follow Polo's footsteps closer to home, the explorer's birthplace is near the almost 700-year-old Saint Peter's Church, another popular sightseeing destination.

Shipbuilding and stonecutting played vital roles in Korcula's economy for centuries. Pine forests provided the raw materials for ships, and ships provided transportation for Korcula stone, which was once well-known throughout Europe and used in many palaces.

Korcula's heritage comes alive in a traditional dance that has been performed for more than four centuries. The Moreska sword dance depicts the battle of two kings and their armies for the love of a beautiful girl ..." (CNN Interactive - Destinations)

Korcula in The Sunday Times - Croatia is for water boys and girls of every hue. Blessed with clear seas, pretty harbour towns and some of Europe's most beautiful islands, it's the perfect place to mix wet and dry - whether it's on an island-hopping holiday, lazing by a favourite rocky cove or burning calories by kayak.

Dubrovnik is the pin-up town, but there are other treats in store, including Korcula, a Venetian confection of tightly wound streets on the island of the same name, which offers the best mix of scenery and swimming for those who want to stay put. (The Sunday Times - Travel, 25th July 2004)

Lonely Planet - Hot Spots: Top Destinations for 2005 - Croatia soared to the top of this year's poll after a fourth-place finish last year. Croatia's appeal was its unique combination of culture, history, cuisine, accessibility and affordability. As one staffer wrote, "This is Croatia's year. It appeals to a wide range of travellers with its rich diversity of attractions. And it has not yet been over-touristed, but it has developed an excellent tourism infrastructure -- so that it suits both adventurous travellers and those who need a degree of comfort in their planning." Another staffer wrote, "Croatia's combination of easy accessibility (it's within driving distance of a large chunk of Europe), relative affordability (especially compared to the beach countries like Spain and Italy), and high quality will mean that it will be a 'hot' destination again this year." Other staffers lauded its "stunning beaches and islands," "magnificent food" and "wonderfully preserved towns such as Dubrovnik." Congratulations, Croatia! (Lonely Planet - Traveller at Large, 31st Jan 2005)